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| Holy Family Sister Malachy Hannigan holds the reissued
copy of her pastry cookbook. |
By Sharon Abercrombie
Staff writer
In 1971, when
the Holy Family Sisters decided to publish their favorite cook’s
collection of pastry recipes, they discovered a problem -- Sister Malachy
Hannigan never measured anything. “It was a pinch here and a pinch
there,” recalls Sister Gladys Guenther, the congregation's vice
president.
So “an army of women” followed the nun around while she was
baking, said Sister Guenther. They wrote down the ingredients. They guessed
at the amounts.
Talk about a test kitchen in action….the women would prepare the
same recipe over and over until it tasted exactly like Sister Hannigan’s
creation.
Their cooking marathons paid off. The book was a sellout. And now, 32
years later, in honor of the nun’s 100th birthday, the Sisters have
issued a revised edition featuring 100 of Sister Hannigan’s “Greatest
Hits.”
Until two years ago when she officially retired for the second time to
live in Fremont, Sister Malachy Hannigan volunteered for many years in
the kitchen of St. Anthony’s Dining Room in San Francisco and visited
the sick and elderly at Laguna Honda Hospital. She first retired as a
convent cook in 1986.
Born in Cottaur Raphoe, County Donegal, Northern Ireland, Sarah Mary Hannigan,
“Sally,” decided at age of 11 that she wanted to be a cloistered
religious.
When she and her brother sailed for America on the Queen Mary in 1929,
Sally intended to enter the Poor Clares in Oakland in part because she
felt her lack of education would keep her from other ministries besides
prayer.
After arriving in San Francisco, she found a job as a housekeeper and
cook for two retired attorneys. She began attending St. Ignatius Church.
She told Jesuit Father Richard Gleeson that she was planning to join a
cloistered order. He responded that he thought the Holy Family Sisters
would be a better fit.
“But Father, I don’t know them. I wouldn’t know how
to get there,” she replied. He wrote down the directions to the
Sisters’ motherhouse at the corner of Hayes and Fillmore Streets.
She entered the community on January 6, 1934, at the age of 27. “And
I haven’t regretted it one bit, not for a minute. I’d do it
all over again,” she said.
Because of her cooking background, she was put in charge of the motherhouse
kitchen. “It was a big job,” notes Sister Guenther. “Three
meals for 120 Sisters during retreats and summer sessions were the norm.”
The rest of the time, her work was a little lighter – just 80 Sisters
to feed.
Holy Family Sister Marianne Smith, now a full-time social worker at Holy
Family Day Home in San Francisco, used to help Sister Hannigan. “She
was a doll, a little mite, even then,” said Sister Smith, who entered
the community in 1944.
It was well-known that the cook spoiled her kitchen assistants. Once,
when cautioned against doing so, Sister Hannigan said she intended to
keep right on coddling them because she needed them. “We didn’t
have paid help in those days,” she explained.
Sister Smith quickly learned what a great cook she assisted each day.
A special combination called “beans, buns and benedicamus”
was a Saturday night favorite.
The beans were cooked with ham, onions, parsley and garlic. There were
home-made yeast rolls. “Benedicamus” was a blessing to the
Sisters; it signaled that they could talk during the dinner instead of
their usual silence.
Another famous Hannigan recipe is “Fiesta Cake,” a chiffon
concoction with beaten egg whites added to the batter. The cake featured
a whipped cream frosting with a boiled candy coffee topping made from
scratch. The recipe, developed by the Sperry Flour Company, was complicated
with such fearsome directions as “bring coffee mixture to a boil
and cook to the hard crack stage.”
But Sister Hannigan would bake six of those cakes each year on the feast
of St. Ignatius for the Jesuits at St. Ignatius Church. Asked recently
if she could make a Fiesta cake now, she quickly responded, “No,
not even for the Pope.”
Sister Hannigan also had an ongoing side door ministry each morning.
“After our 7 a.m. breakfast, we would start fixing food for the
poor. Each person would get two beautifully wrapped sandwiches and a piece
of fruit,” said Sister Smith. This hospitality to the poor and homeless
predated St. Anthony’s Dining Room by several years.
She also clothed the poor, found hospital services for those who needed
them, and counseled those with substance abuse problems.
When the Holy Family Sisters moved their headquarters to Fremont, Sister
Hannigan resettled in a smaller convent in San Francisco. She continued
to cook. After officially retiring from those duties, she helped out at
St. Anthony’s on the soup line by passing out mugs. She visited
the residents at Laguna Honda.
Now retired from all outside ministries, Sister Hannigan has finally realized
her youthful dream of being a contemplative. She spends most of her time
in prayer.
Said Trish Carney, congregation secretary, “When we need to find
her, if she is not in her room, she is almost always in the chapel.”
To order a copy of Sister Hannigan’s cookbook, send a $25 check
to: Malachy’s Cookbook, P.O. Box 3248, Fremont, CA. 94539, or call
(510) 624-4595.
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